Who is Anthony Bourdain referring to in this paragraph:

Althouse asked who Anthony Bourdain is referring to in this:

I wish I could say the same for one of the “lions” of the food writing community—someone who (until this trip) I had always liked and looked up to. Over the course of a few days, he revealed himself to be the most vicious, abusive, misogynistic, back-biting piece of shit I have ever met in my life. (and after 30 years in the restaurant business, that’s saying something). I’m hardly the nicest or most polite guy in the world. But even I was shocked. When not shouting profanities at the chefs, bursting into noisy and prolonged bouts of flatulence during the traditional tea ceremony, insulting and belligerently interfering with my crew by petulantly flashing his cell phone camera directly into their eyes while they were working (“I’m a journalist! I’m allowed!”), this guy was drinking himself stupid. It was only through their infinite mercy—and perhaps no small amount of pity for this elderly and shambolic creature, that my crew did not punch his face in. They were sorely tempted. Anyone who attended the event will surely recognize which particular steaming dribble of ordure I’m talking about.  

The hint is the term "lion" and that Anthony says he liked and admired him (although you don't think of him as a writer).  Although we all can occasionally lose it in public with a few drinks...  And talking about drinking, some one had a few too many wine pairings...  He could be the guy too (but I do not recall Tony ever saying he liked him).  

Here is a place to vote who it might be.  

Update:   I was wrong.  It was likely Steingarten.  

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